The Rot Doctor


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Subject: Deck Repair
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002

I have an exterior deck which is built on 2x12 joists which extend out from the floor of our second story bedroom. During a home inspection, it was determined that there was decay in the bottom or the deck boards where they met the joists. When I removed the deck boards, I found much more extensive damage to the joists than expected. There were sections of the joists, which had damage from both dry-rot and termites. I have removed most of the damaged area, which extended up to 2 deep into the joist from the top. These joists cannot be replaced, so I need to repair them.

What is your recommendation for performing this repair?

Thanks in advance for your assistance,

Pat

Pat,

It's important that you stop the rotting process before you begin the actual joist repair. To do this we suggest you use our CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), brushed/sprayed generously on the deteriorated areas. This will also harden any soft or punky wood that may remain, and serve as a bonding surface for the structural filler. Since you are having this problem, I would also take the opportunity to apply the CPES to whatever parts of the joists you can access...as a preventive measure.

Following the application of the CPES, you then apply either our Fill-It Epoxy Filler (cures white) or a mix of our Layup & Laminating Resin and sawdust (cures to the color of the sawdust) to the vacant areas. Either of these materials will bond at the molecular level with the CPES-treated wood and produce a structural repair. The compressive strength of either of these products exceeds 20,000 lb/sq/in, which is far harder than wood. They will never crack or pop out.

For the CPES, you can figure on getting about 150 sq ft per gallon coverage. For the filler, it's strictly a volume issue -- as much as you need to fill the vacant areas.

Both these products are professional-grade and available only directly from us. Please feel free to come back if you have additional questions.

Doc

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